Buyers Guide To Ropes
Possibly THE most important part of your climbing arsenal, but let’s face it, buying a rope is a pretty meaty investment for all of us. Why? Because things have come on a bit since Joe Brown headed out to the Peak District crags with his Mum’s old washing line – these days there’s an incredible amount of science and technology in your rope designed to absorb shock, repel water, reduce abrasion with some even tested specifically to retain strength if your rope runs over a sharp edge. But there are so many! Here’s how to choose the one that will work best for you…..
Why are there so many to choose from?
Well, each different style of climbing has its own requirements. What type of climbing do you do? This question is key to helping you choose which diameter, length and treatment option you may need. Indoor, outdoor, sport, trad, mixed, ice, big walls and hauling, top-roping, alpine, mountaineering etc…….. chances are you’ll need more than one rope if you enjoy more than one style. We can talk you through these in the shop, no problem, suggest which ropes may be suitable for more than one type of climbing and discuss features which may save you money in the long run.
Can I use semi-static rope for climbing?
No. Huge amounts of science and technology go into climbing ropes, ensuring they stretch to absorb the energy of a fall. This dynamic stretch or impact force is critical to reducing force on belays (less chance of them ripping out) and your body (no one wants their internal organs haemorrhaging after a fall) Semi-static rope is designed with minimal stretch, it is not dynamic and therefore only suitable for fixed lines when caving, rigging, abseiling or rescue.
What is the difference between Single/Half/Twin and Triple Rated ropes?
You can determine how your rope is rated from the instructions or the symbol on the rope end marker.
Single ropes are the most common type of classic climbing rope covering a range of different applications for both outdoor and indoor use, alpine climbing and mountaineering owing to their simplicity and uncomplicated handling. Single ropes are usually available in diameters from 8.9 mm to 10.5mm. Those with a thicker diameter are generally stronger and can withstand a greater number of falls, ideal for intensive use such as working routes or top-roping.
Twin ropes must always be used in pairs. Twin ropes must always be clipped together into each bolt or piece of protection. They have a lighter weight and a thinner diameter (usually 6.9 to 8 mm) offering higher safety margins due to their significantly greater sharp edge resistance as well as reducing the risk of a total failure (stonefall, breaking over a sharp edge etc). This is why twin ropes are particularly suited to alpine climbing in demanding terrain or for ice and mixed climbing. Using twin ropes also allows you to abseil twice as far, which means that you can escape or retreat rapidly.
Half ropes (also known as double ropes) are designed, like twin ropes, to be used as a pair. However, unlike twin ropes, half ropes do not need to be clipped together into each bolt or piece of protection. This technique is ideal for poorly protected or zig-zagging routes or for traditional climbing (trad) allowing rope drag to be reduced where protection points are spread out and considerably reduces impact force. Climbing with a pair of half ropes requires using a belay device that allows you to manage two ropes simultaneously, i.e. to be able to pay out and take in both ropes. Half ropes are used for the same activities as twin ropes. They have one important difference – half ropes can be used as a single rope to bring up a second. This is particularly relevant when climbing as a party of three and bringing up two seconds. Half ropes range in diameter from 7.5 to 9mm.
Triple rated ropes mean that each rope has been approved to work on its own (as a single rope), as one half of a double rope system, and as one half of a twin rope system. Ranging between 8.5 to 9.1mm they make for very skinny singles, be sure to check if your belay device is designed to handle them.
What features should I look for?
Ropes have a variety of features to help you enjoy your sport – some are even critical to your safety. Centre marker/Bi-colour ropes are ropes woven with either a black sheath at the centre, or two distinctly different colours to each half so you know exactly how much rope you have left to finish a pitch and make a belay. Knowing the location of the centre of your rope is essential for abseiling. Some ropes have end markers allowing the belayer to see and feel when they are coming to the end of a rope. Different colours are braided in and in some cases the braid is changed to alter the feel of the final 5 metres of rope – very handy when abseiling or lowering a climber. A high sheath percentage makes for a very smooth, very durable rope ideal for sport climbing.
A key choice is whether a dry or non-dry treated rope will work best for the type of climbing you do. When a rope gets wet, it gets heavier and loses its strength and performance (don’t worry, it retains it once it is dry). If you are climbing in cold conditions, the saturated rope can freeze making it stiff and difficult to handle. A dry treatment will reduce these issues significantly. A dry treated rope may also be tested to a higher fall rating than its non-dry equivalent and may be more abrasion resistant over sharp edges. Dry ropes can have a dry core, a dry sheath or both. Ropes with both offer the greatest moisture protection.
Is colour important?
Yes – especially when climbing with half ropes. Make sure you choose a significantly different colour from your partner. If you are Scottish winter or alpine climbing, consider a colour that can be deciphered in flat light, dawn, dusk or darkness.
Can I put my rope in the washing machine?
Yes! A rope is a textile product and can be washed; in fact, if your rope is really dirty, washing will actually improve its handling. Use a mild synthetic detergent - we sell Nikwax Ropewash for this very purpose. The best way to wash your rope is by hand in lukewarm water. The delicates cycle (30°C) in the washing machine is also OK. Important – don’t use the spin cycle and never tumble dry your rope. To dry your rope – don’t hang it up and avoid direct sunlight. The best way to dry it is to spread it out on the ground in a cool, dark place.
Store your rope in a rope bag or coiled in a dry, dark, cool place and not in a container. Keep it away from direct sunlight, chemicals, heat and any sources of mechanical damage. Storing a rope permanently in the boot of your car is a bad idea. It could be exposed to large fluctuations in temperature and maybe even harmful chemicals. This will help your rope last as long as possible, but remember – one high-factor fall could mean you need to retire your rope immediately.
In addition to all this are the tests and ratings – like we said a HUGE amount of science goes into ropes to make them safe. As long as the rope carries a CE/UKCA & UIAA marking you can be sure it has been made to a minimum level but you also have a responsibility to understand what you are buying and how to use a rope safely as part of a climbing system. Our sales team can help explain these more when you come into the shop – it’s way easier than endless scrolling online. It saves time too, so you can get out on the crags and enjoy more climbing!
Outdoor Gear Chat Podcast
Take a listen to our Outdoor Gear Chat podcast Episode 37, all about ropes, where Cathy and Wayne talk with Alex Smurthwaite from Edelrid UK and discover how not all ropes are equal.
